dimanche 30 juillet 2017

Things you are doing wrong when eating ramen


Yet devouring a bowl of can be... daunting. Few inspire such a cult-like following, and yet it’s kind of unwieldy to eat. Do you slurp up the long noodles, or attempt to “cut” them up with your Do you copy the guy that picked up his bowl and drank from it, or has he just never been to a before?

For some general rules of thumb, we turned to Ivan Orkin, founder of Ivan Ramen, which has two locations in New York. Orkin, a white guy from New York state and a star of Season 3 on Chef’s Table, started his career in Tokyo by watching experts cook; he caused a sensation when he opened his own shop in the Japanese capital.

Orkin has spent years studying the art of and knows exactly what — and what not to do — with your precious bowl of Here are his rules, in his own words.

  •  You’re letting it get cold: The first rule of is to eat it while it’s hot. No smart person would push aside a fresh-from-the-oven pizza to start eating salad, right? The majority of arrives with a hot broth, which means can overcook if they sit for too long. 

  •  You’re battling your noodles: When a bowl of is placed in front of you, the will probably be coiled together. If you take a moment to untangle them with your chopsticks, pulling them out of the coil, they’re easier to eat. If you just grab a large section of the tangle, the will flight you back — they’ll all come along, and then you can’t fit the bite into your mouth. 

  •  You’re not slurping: Do not be afraid to slurp your In Japan, it’s expected. For one thing, it cools hot down. you can slurp are also the sign of a broth with enough fat to cling to them. If you can’t slurp — if the noodle feels dry — the broth isn’t rich enough. 

  •  You’re biting off more than you can chew: A lot of people make the mistake of grabbing a giant pile of that they can’t really handle. Rule of thumb: Take a smaller amount than you think you want. You do not want to be sucking into your mouth and then biting them in half so that some falls back into the bowl. Plan for a full — but not overwhelming — mouthful of

  •  You’re not paying attention: I like to think of preparation as an action sport, an interactive activity. If you’re lucky enough to sit at a bar that overlooks the kitchen, watch them build the bowl. It’s a surprisingly complex procedure for something that seems so simple. 

  •  You’re not taking toppings seriously: When I go to a shop for the first time, I choose the bowl that the place is most famous for. I will go easy on the toppings. I want to know if I like the flavour of the and what the fuss is all about. If I go back, then I see if they have a special, and that’s when I experiment with toppings.

  •  You’re ignoring your beverage: Be ready to drink a tremendous amount of water with your Or beer. Or both. There’s a lot of salt in the broth, whether you know it or not, and if you don’t drink water, you are going to feel crappy, I guarantee it. In Japan, they sell a special black oolong tea that helps you digest the pork fat in tonkotsu  

  •  You’re minding your manners too much: It’s okay to drink the broth from the bowl. It’s considered a compliment to how good the broth is. But finish it at your own risk; those broths are flavour bombs, packed with sodium. Another thing that is okay to do is to ask for extra if you’ve finished the ones in your bowl. Last, have a stack of napkins handy, can be a bit of a mess. That’s why is so popular. 

© Bloomberg

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Things you are doing wrong when eating ramen

In China, designer goods delivered to your doorstep

In China, legions of delivery personnel power the world’s largest e-commerce boom. Known for their careening three-wheeled carts, they terrorise pedestrians and sometimes dump their packages on doorsteps and desks with the delicacy of a restaurant employee tossing out yesterday’s leftovers.


Then there is Tang Hongliang, who is part of an ambitious effort to bring some sparkle to the business — and perhaps help revive the fortunes of the world’s makers of high-priced and

Decked out in a black suit, dark gray tie and white gloves, Tang does not look like a typical Instead of piping hot noodle lunches, he delivers a $2,400 designer handbag. Rather than a three-wheeler, he drives an electric car to transport expensive cargo. In the time he makes one or two deliveries, the typical Chinese courier would have made about 150.

“Efficiency is of course important,” said Tang, who works for the online retailer JD.com. “But serving the customer is the most important.”

Facing slowing sales, global luxury brands are angling for a piece of China’s e-commerce market, where people are accustomed to buying gadgets and groceries, but not high-priced jewellery and haute couture. Many are unsure, however, about diving headfirst into online retail, because China’s favourite way to shop is also an industry better known for piracy and dusty deliverymen than for shine and polish.

To court the luxury market, companies like Alibaba and JD.com are using their vast customer base to offer upscale retailers support on issues like digital marketing, pricing, customer services and, in the case of Tang, delivery.

“The most difficult thing to overcome is the experience for the shoppers,” said Xia Ding, president of JD.com’s fashion division. “But because we own the logistics we are really able to deliver luxury goods in a way that makes shoppers feel like they are getting the same special experience as they get offline.”

Chinese shoppers have long dominated the global luxury market. In the last two years, a continuing anticorruption campaign and an economic slowdown led to a decline in Chinese demand for luxury, contributing to an overall global slump. Still, last year Chinese shoppers accounted for 30 percent of global luxury purchases, according to a report by Bain & Company.

Until recently, however, many Chinese luxury purchases were being made overseas or through daigou — personal shoppers who buy goods abroad and bring them into China, avoiding the country’s hefty taxes. That started to change two years ago when, in an effort to combat gray-market sales, a number of high-end luxury brands led by Chanel took steps to reduce the price gap between goods in China and overseas.

At about the same time, the Chinese government also stepped up efforts to crack down on daigou shoppers, increasing checks at airports and lowering duties on some luxury goods imported through official channels.

As a result, brands have seen a shift in luxury shopping habits, with more and more Chinese consumers now choosing to buy at home rather than abroad. This so-called reshoring has caught the attention of Chinese e-commerce companies, causing major players like Alibaba and JD.com, as well as smaller luxury-focused companies like Secoo and Xiu, to invest aggressively in the luxury sphere.

“Mass market brands already know that there is no choice but to be on these e-commerce platforms,” said Liz Flora of L2, a market research company based in New York. “So luxury is really the next frontier for these e-tailers. You can see the competition getting more and more fierce.”

In addition to starting the white-glove delivery service, JD.com announced a deal last month to invest $397 million in the luxury e-commerce platform Farfetch, which is based in London. Both Alibaba and JD.com are considering rolling out separate platforms focused exclusively on luxury in the coming months, executives from the companies said in interviews.

But so far, China’s e-commerce companies have struggled to persuade top international luxury brands to sell on their platforms. Luxury companies have long been concerned that with e-commerce, it would be impossible to replicate the gilded, perfectly curated in-store shopping experience. Brands also worry about their products being sold next to counterfeit and gray-market items — an issue that Alibaba in particular has struggled with in the past.

Still, there is no ignoring the reality that Chinese consumers love shopping online. Chinese shoppers spent $758 billion online last year — more than the United States and Britain combined, according to official data, buying everything from toilet paper to luxury cars.

“The brands are finally starting to intellectualise the fact that to succeed in China, they need to go online,” said Alexis Bonhomme, co-founder of CuriosityChina, a Beijing-based digital marketing and tech company that works with luxury brands. “The bottom line is they need new revenue channels and e-commerce is a real revenue channel.”

Some brands have already made the leap. Burberry in particular has led the push into e-commerce in China, opening a flagship store on Alibaba’s Tmall platform. Others, like the Hong Kong jeweller Chow Tai Fook and the Swiss watch brand Tag Heuer, have stores on JD.com.

To appeal to brands, e-commerce companies offer to increase efforts to crack down on counterfeits.

“One of our goals was to clean up the e-commerce market so we could ensure that anyone who bought online was buying a real Tag Heuer,” said Leo Poon, general manager of Tag Heuer in greater China. “So far it’s been working and we’re seeing sales picking up.”

But for more high-end luxury brands, increasing the anti-counterfeit effort is not enough. 

“Luxury brands are control freaks,” Bonhomme of CuriosityChina said. “They want complete control over everything.”

For now, some luxury brands are opting to create their own e-commerce websites to sell directly to consumers. Many, like Cartier and Bulgari, have also begun partnerships with Tencent’s popular WeChat mobile messaging service to create online stores, flash sales, and marketing campaigns featuring major Chinese influencers.

Ultimately, e-commerce giants like Alibaba and JD.com are hoping that the allure of their vast consumer base will be too difficult for luxury brands to resist. Shiny add-on features like the white-glove delivery service may make swallowing the e-commerce pill a little easier for the brands. On a recent morning, Tang, the courier, pulled out of a JD.com warehouse on the outskirts of Beijing with a single delivery box in tow. Three-wheeled delivery carts whizzed past as he drove calmly toward the city’s central business district.

After waiting for the customer for nearly two hours, Tang stepped out of the car, pulled on his signature gloves and headed out to deliver the package.

“Wow, I wasn’t expecting this service at all,” Yan Luxia, 30, said as she received the box and took out a designer Italian leather handbag.

Yan, who manages a dating service in Beijing, later said the premium delivery service had been a very “satisfying” experience. “But to be honest,” she added, “consumers care more about the authenticity of the product.”



©2017 The New York Times Service

Let's block ads! (Why?)

In China, designer goods delivered to your doorstep

The destruction of equality

The Battle to Save the World’s Most Successful Political Idea 

Bill Emmott 

PublicAffairs

257 pages; $28

ONE ANOTHER’S EQUALS 

The Basis of Human Equality 

Jeremy Waldron 

The Belknap Press/Harvard University Press

264 pages; $29.95

The greatest threat to Western liberal democracies in the future is more likely to come from extreme inequality than from Islamic extremism. This is because inequality erodes two foundation stones of modern society — openness to new ideas and opportunities, and a conviction that all citizens are morally equal.


For the first three decades after World War II, openness and equality constituted a virtuous circle. Openness generated unprecedented levels of prosperity. That prosperity allowed America and the citizens of other modern nations to invest in excellent schools and universities, basic research, modern infrastructure and social insurance. These investments, in turn, made it easier for people to adapt to change, and fostered ever greater equalities of income and opportunity. The result was a high level of trust in the fairness of the political and economic system.

But by the 1980s, the virtuous circle had stopped working. Economic and technological dynamism was upending jobs, convulsing communities and splintering families. At the same time, inequalities of earnings, wealth and job security were widening. After the financial crisis of 2008, many Americans, along with the citizens of other nations affected by the crisis, began to doubt the fairness of the system. 


Two important new offer useful and complementary explanations for what has occurred and, by implication, what must be done. In The Fate of the West, argues that the 2008 financial crisis and its aftermath resulted from “a devastating blend of complacency, negligence and corruption” in the years leading up to it. The banks that created the calamity got bailed out and no top executive went to jail, but millions of people lost their jobs, savings and homes. Nearly a decade later, many citizens in the United States, Britain, France, Italy and elsewhere still feel trapped in dead-end jobs or don’t have jobs at all. The result has been a profound loss of confidence in the system.

Emmott, who was editor in chief of The Economist from 1993 to 2006, faults economic and political elites who chose to advance themselves at the expense of the larger society. He points to a paradox deep within modern capitalism: The same financial incentives that spur innovation and investment can also lead the captains of industry and finance to manipulate the rules of the game for their own benefit, and thereby harm those without power. These moneyed elites “are the true sources of the sense of inequality that is currently threatening the openness that has enabled us in the West to flourish,” he writes. “They are the explanation for Trump, for Brexit, for Le Pen.”

Emmott argues that the financial interests of banks and big companies have distorted and disarmed public policy. Both of America’s political parties are culpable. “Most notorious, in the US at least, was the successful lobbying in 1998 by Wall Street of the treasury secretary, Robert Rubin, and his deputy, Larry Summers, to block regulation of the trading of complex derivatives products which had been proposed by the then head of the Commodity Futures Trading Commission, Brooksley Born.” Emmott also criticises big companies like Google, which have the lobbying and financial heft to get whatever they want in Washington. Campaign finance scandals have likewise revealed the political influence of money in Germany, Japan, France, Britain and elsewhere.

Emmott sees political and civic equality as the means to an open society. But why shouldn’t such equality be an end in itself? In “One Another’s Equals: The Basis of Human Equality,” Jeremy Waldron, a professor of philosophy at New York University School of Law, argues that Western thought has been rooted in the moral imperative that people be treated and respected as equals, whatever disparities may exist between them in wealth or talent. Waldron sees moral equality between human beings as what’s left over when “merit” is set aside. People deserve equal concern and respect because they are humans. Differences in wealth and power are consistent with this imperative if those differences serve the interests of all. Thus the answer to whose good is to be promoted in our social arrangements is — everyone’s good.

Waldron warns that wide inequalities of income and wealth can erode this moral imperative because they make it harder to make the mental leap it requires: The poor may come to seem so different from the privileged and prosperous that the well-off cannot understand a moral principle that assigns equal value to the living of a human life as such. 


Waldron urges the same sort of political equality as does Emmott, but he gets there from the opposite direction. For him, the purpose of political equality is not to preserve an open society. It is to honour basic human equality. “It is because we are that we ought to have concern about high levels of economic inequality,” he writes.

Viewed from either Emmott’s or Waldron’s point of departure — the necessity of preserving an open society or of respecting the moral equality of human beings — the surge toward widening inequality is endangering the West. As Emmott notes, without openness, the West cannot thrive. But without equality, the West cannot last.
 

©2017 The New York Times News Service


Let's block ads! (Why?)

The destruction of equality

samedi 29 juillet 2017

Why Christopher Nolan didn't allow chairs, water bottles on Dunkirk set

Actor says that he and his co-stars Fionn Whitehead, and were not allowed and on the set of "Dunkirk".

Rylance says Nolan has various idiosyncrasies as a director.

"Very much so; he's very particular about using film and everything being real in front of the camera, so there were a lot of old techniques used in this film to make it look real. The flames on the water and men swimming in them; he really wants to minimize the amount of post-production and CGI stuff," Rylance told independent.co.uk.

"He does things like he doesn't like having on set for actors or bottles of water, he's very particular," he added.

Further talking why Nolan banned and water bottles, Rylance's co-star Barry Keoghan said: "They're distractions -- the noise of (the bottles), they're like toys almost, playing around with toys. (The lack of chairs, meanwhile) keeps you on your toes, literally."

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Why Christopher Nolan didn't allow chairs, water bottles on Dunkirk set

vendredi 28 juillet 2017

Cows safer than women: Sujatro Ghosh is tackling issues of women's safety

Mumbai’s bustling streets are witnessing an unusual sight these days. In classrooms, parks, outside butcher shops, at Worli Sea Link and Dadar station, women are posing for photographs with cow masks. It doesn’t matter if they’re young or old, students, slum dwellers, professionals or domestic workers — they’re all coming together to raise a collective voice in a series of startling photographs that have gone viral on social media. The brainchild of 23-year-old Sujatro Ghosh, an independent photographer and activist, this photo highlights the politically explosive question: are cows more important than women in today’s India? 

Ghosh was inspired to start his in the first week of July when he read about the growing number of lynchings over suspected in the country. “At the same time, perpetrators of sexual harassment, even rape, were going unpunished or were out on bail,” he says. It is estimated that convictions are secured in barely one-third of sexual offence cases that are investigated. Most go unreported and unpunished. “I had the crazy sense of living in a democracy that gave us no choice,” he says. And thus, the idea for this unique public art project was born. 

“Initially, I started the project by photographing my friends and acquaintances wearing a mask that I had bought from New York,” says the Delhi-based photographer. Although a trained professional photographer, Ghosh chose to shoot with his phone instead of a professional camera. “A phone is much more immediate,” he says. “It is also more democratic.” Moreover, he did not want his craft to overshadow the subject of the photograph. To his surprise, the photographs created an instant sensation on social media. “As more and more people got to know about this project, I had strangers asking me to photograph them with my masks,” he says. Soon, he had to order three more masks from China. “Around the time I started my project,” says he, “the ‘Not In My Name’ also took off. I feel that these campaigns captured the public gaze because they echoed the anguish that many of us feel due to the situation our country faces.”

The results have been surreal, a satirical alternate reality in which women safely go about their everyday lives as cows. “I like to photograph my subjects in milieus they belong to,” he says. 

Today, people write to Ghosh requesting him to photograph them for his project. “I  sometimes also chat with women on the street, tell them about the project and convince them to pose for me,” he says. Not all say yes. “I met a lady in Delhi who first refused to pose for me,” narrates Ghosh. “After a while, she came back to me and said that she’d thought about the issue a little more and wanted to be part of my project.” These conversations have become the most rewarding — and the most significant — aspect of Ghosh’s initiative. 


Mask 2
Some reactions, however, have been more vitriolic. Given the intensely political nature of the campaign, many women have refused to be photographed by him. Ghosh has also been the victim of internet trolls who have heaped scorn at his choice of subject. “Someone even threatened to cannibalise me along with my subjects,” he says. Interestingly, the project, in spite of having received so much attention from the media, hasn’t been even acknowledged by any government or Indian NGO. “On the other hand, I’ve received several interesting comments and proposals from foreign organisations,” he says. 

At present, Ghosh is on a crowd-funded mission to photograph women across the country. After Mumbai, his next stops are Goa, Bengaluru and the Northeast. So far, Ghosh has only focused on urban India, something that he plans to rectify very soon. “I’d like to travel through the south and the northeast of India, where I plan to venture into villages,” he says. “After all, sexual violence is a universal phenomenon, possibly worse in rural India where it tends to go unreported.” 

He has, so far, taken over 90 photographs of women wearing cow masks in different milieus. All of them are available on his Instagram and Facebook accounts. Since Ghosh’s photo project has grown organically till now, he plans to let it chart its own course. “I’d not imagined it would take this shape when I started it,” he says. “Although I don’t have an end date in mind, I’ll travel around the country with my cow masks as long as the crowd-funding lasts, starting conversations with women (and men) around issues related to women’s safety.” The immediate task on hand is a simpler one: Ghosh needs more masks. Four are simply not enough.


Let's block ads! (Why?)

Cows safer than women: Sujatro Ghosh is tackling issues of women's safety

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones: A delight for audiophiles

The Momentum headphones are another great addition to a range of premium headphones by Germany’s Sennheiser, known for its high-fidelity

These and Near Field Communication-enabled headphones are a iteration of an earlier wired version of headphones by the same name. What makes the headphones, priced Rs 14,990, really special is a soft housing audio driver, music and call controller keys, microphone, v4.1 and NFC chip.

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones
The Momentum headphones come packed in a sturdy case containing additional earbuds of three sizes, a microUSB charging cable, and a user manual. The product looks premium, especially with a lot of focus on detail which makes it stand out. 

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones
Coming to the features and functionality, the headphones pair up with any device with either or NFC. Connecting using the takes very little time and the built-in NFC chip assures instant pairing through simply tapping the on an NFC-enabled device.

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones
Made of soft leather, the feels premium and complements the overall aesthetics of the headphones. It is light and easy on your neck, even if you are planning to wear it all day.

The headphones attached to the are the true winner in terms of audio quality and comfort. Even with music playing at the loudest, the headphones go on for more than 10 hours straight. And, charging the battery takes less than half an hour with a charger and almost an hour through USB port.

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones
As for the cons, the headphones do not have any protection against water, dust or sweat, so you need to be careful while using it. Though the shining metallic back, with the logo engraved, lends the earpieces a jewellery-like look, it seems to lose its sheen after a week. And, there is no way to bring the brightness back.

Verdict: At its price point, the Momentum headphones may seem a little too expensive. But considering the features and the fact that it aims to take on the Bose QC 30, currently retailing at around Rs 27,000, the Momentum headphones can be a good buy.

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Sennheiser Momentum in-ear wireless headphones: A delight for audiophiles

Xiaomi Mi Max 2 Review: Great battery life, features justify price tag

Xiaomi recently launched the Mi Max 2, the second iteration of its Mi Max, in India at Rs 16,999. A large-screen device with a focus on multimedia capabilities, this smartphone has updated specifications, features and design which make the Mi Max 2 a solid performer in its segment.

Business Standard used this device to see how it fares on key performance metrics. Here are our observations on the Mi Max 2:

Design


The Mi Max 2 features a metallic build with round edges and curved sides. It has a 6.44-inch full-HD 1920 x 1080 screen, protected with 2.5D curved Gorilla Glass 3. The curved glass adds to the aesthetics and feels more premium than flat glass. With screen turned off, the smartphone wears a bezel-less look, but huge bezels become visible around the display when you turn the screen on.

Capacitive navigation keys are placed on the bottom bezels at the front which makes it handy to use for full-screen content. Also, it seems a much better idea than on-screen navigation buttons killing the overall screen resolution.

At its back, the smartphone has a fingerprint sensor at the centre-top. The placement of the sensor, however, is not great; it is difficult to reach during single-hand use. The rear camera placed on the top-left is assisted by a dual-tone LED flash. The placement of the camera is also somewhat inappropriate as it comes behind the index finger most of the times when you hold the phone horizontally.
 


The antenna lines at the back are now moved to the top and bottom edges and are almost invisible. The inclusion of infrared blaster at the top adds to the overall utility of the smartphone. This 7.6mm smartphone is not at all bulky but its weight of 211 g makes it quite heavy for long operations.

Xiaomi has added USB type-C port for charging and data transfer, and this is a welcome addition to the device. The speaker and a microphone are placed in the 6-hole grill on either side of the USB type-C port.

The Mi Max 2 has a single speaker at the bottom but it turns its earpiece into speaker during horizontal use for immersive multimedia experience. The phone gives stereo audio output and that is a nice addition, even as the overall sound quality is just about okay.

Hardware and software

The Mi Max 2 is powered by an efficient Qualcomm Snapdragon 625 processor, a popular choice for mid-segment smartphones. The processor works fine for regular tasks, but shows some lag while operating heavy apps and processor-intensive features. The phone comes with a 4 GB RAM and 64 GB internal storage, expandable with microSD.

The hybrid card slot can support either two SIMs, or one SIM and a microSD (up to 128 GB). With 64 GB internal storage, it is assumed that the need for a microSD card would not arise. But if you want to use two SIMs as well as microSD card, this smartphone may disappoint you.

The Mi Max 2 runs Android 7.1.1 Nougat out of the box under the Xiaomi MIUI 8.5 skin. This makes it the only phone in the company to currently run a stable MIUI ROM based on Nougat. Despite a modern version of Android, you could be slightly disappointed to see some features missing from the Mi Max 2.

The vast screen estate gives a lot of scope for MIUI 8.5 software-based customisations. But, the lack of features like split-screen in the current software version affects the experience.

On the other hand, there are some useful features like the one-handed mode, which reduces the screen for single-handed use. Quick ball keys allow on-screen multi-function key for improved usability, and the reading mode reduces blue light glare for extended reading time without any strain on eyes. The phone also sports a second space feature that allows you to create two accounts based on your usage – personal and professional. The device also supports dual app feature and that creates two instances of the same app, allowing multiple accounts on the same phone. For example, with the dual app feature, you can have two WhatsApp accounts with different numbers running simultaneously on the Mi Max 2.

Camera

The Mi Max 2 has a 12-megapixel (MP) rear camera with f/2.2 aperture and dual-LED flash. On the front, there is a 5 MP wide-angle camera with f/2.0 aperture.

The rear camera uses the Sony IMX386 sensor that delivers balanced images in day-light conditions. The camera takes little to no time to focus on a subject, thanks to phase-detection autofocus (PDAF). The pictures turn out good with enough details and balanced colours. The rear camera, however, suffers drastically during low-light conditions, and that is something we have seen in almost all Xiaomi devices. The device stutters to focus in dark conditions and the images carry a lot of noise.

The performance of the front camera is hardly different. In day light, the wide-angle lens allows more subjects to fit in the frame and takes stellar shots, but it fails to impress in low light.

Battery


The has a mammoth 5,300 mAh non-removable battery that delivers exceptional usage. The phone stays up for more than a day and a half even on heavy use. The addition of Quick Charge 3.0 makes charging time shorter: The phone charges from 0-100 per cent within 2 hours, which is exceptional for a phone with such a battery size.

Verdict


The large-screen Mi Max 2 has a bit of many things but the smartphone fails to show perfection in any one department. But its multimedia capabilities and impressive battery life make it a good choice for its price. If, however, you are seeking a camera phone or a large-screen smartphone with multi-tasking capabilities, the may not be for you.

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Xiaomi Mi Max 2 Review: Great battery life, features justify price tag

Russian women in World War II

Samuel Beckett once declined an interview because, he said, he had “no views to inter.” On the other hand, Svetlana Alexievich’s The Unwomanly Face of War: An Oral History of is made up of conversations with women who have waited their entire lives to speak.

This book is an outpouring, a deluge. Roughly a million Soviet women fought in Dozens of them, in this volume, gather around Alexievich as if she were a sentient campfire.

When the war ended, few in wanted to acknowledge these women’s experience. That they were sent into battle, mostly as reinforcements after the slaughter of so many men, was more an occasion for national shame.

“There was no one I could tell that I had been wounded, that I had a concussion,” one woman deposes. “Try telling it, and who will give you a job then, who will marry you? We were silent as fish.”

Alexievich is the Belarussian journalist who became, in 2015, the first person to win the Nobel Prize in Literature for what are, essentially, interviews — for what the Swedish Academy called her “polyphonic writings, a monument to suffering and courage in our time.”

Her many books include Voices From Chernobyl: The Oral History of a Nuclear Disaster (2006) and Secondhand Time: The Last of the Soviets (2016).

The Unwomanly Face of War was her first book. The Russian-language edition, published in 1985, has sold more than two million copies worldwide. It was first issued in English in 1988, in a poor and heavily censored version sponsored by the Soviet Union. The book has been published now in its first full English translation, undertaken by Richard Pevear and Larissa Volokhonsky, the celebrated translators of Pushkin, Gogol, Dostoyevsky and others.

The book relates the stories of women on the front lines and on the home front; some were snipers, others nurses, others tank drivers. They were so young. One tells Alexievich, “We went to die for life, without knowing what life was.”

The Unwomanly Face of War is the product of thousands of hours of interviews. The author unearths a mostly buried aspect of Russian history. There’s a great deal that’s moving and memorable about the hardships described.

But it’s possible to read this book and have reservations about it. Because so much praise has already been heaped on Alexievich and on this volume, I’m going to place my own reservations first.

Many of the author’s interviews, in this book and others, are repetitive in their facts and their tone. An original voice is rare. Is Alexievich a gifted, probing interviewer? It’s hard to say. Her own questions are rarely included.

You consume this lumpy raw material and wonder how a pricklier historian and journalist, a Masha Gessen or an Anne Applebaum, might process and deploy it.


Alexievich provides little context for her narratives. You only occasionally know where and why events are happening. This is by design. “I write not the history of a war, but the history of feelings,” she says in an introduction. “I am a historian of the soul.”
THE UNWOMANLY FACE OF WAR An Oral History of Women in World War II Author: Svetlana Alexievich Publisher: Random House Pages: 331 Price: $30

(Her introduction is filled with self-aggrandising sentences of that sort. “I don’t simply record,” she says of her interviews. “I collect, I track down the human spirit.” This sort of talk would have gotten Studs Terkel bounced from his local Chicago bar.) Surely a desire, even in an oral history, for modest factual scaffolding doesn’t make one unwomanly?

Alexievich has called her books “novels in voices,” and they appear to reside in a gray zone between fiction and journalism. She doesn’t pause to explain, except in the broadest terms, her methods. Every interviewer must edit and condense. Few humans speak in complete sentences. As Janet Malcolm has observed, an interview transcript is “a kind of rough draft of expression.” Beyond editing and condensation, though, what’s allowable?

In an article last year in The New Republic, Sophie Pinkham, the author of Black Square: Adventures in Post-Soviet Ukraine (2016), accused Alexievich of going too far, of reworking her interviews to suit “her own artistic and political project”.

She cited an article by one of Alexievich’s French translators, Galia Ackerman, in which Ackerman and her co-translator found that Alexievich had moved quotations around in her revisions. They “found phrases,” Pinkham writes, “that had migrated from one person’s testimony to another’s, or from Alexievich’s reflections to those of an interview subject.”

Pinkham’s article is worth attending to. In her opinion, Alexievich’s work is too heavy-handed to be considered great literature (with this I essentially agree), and too imprecise to be taken seriously as journalism.

© 2017 The New York Times


Let's block ads! (Why?)

Russian women in World War II

How tattoos may affect your workout

may permanently alter the in ways that affect sweating. According to a small, new study, the amount and saltiness of sweat change after skin has been dyed, a finding that might have implications for athletes who ink large swathes of their bodies and maybe even for those of us who sport one or two discreet (such as the small one on my right shoulder, in case you were wondering).

are decorative, often metaphoric, sometimes regrettable, but always injurious. To create a tattoo, the artist punctures the skin with dye-filled needles at a rate of up to 3,000 times per minute. The dye is injected into the skin’s dermal layer, which is also where most sweat glands are.

The body recognises these injections as abnormal. They have slightly damaged the tissue and left behind a foreign substance, the ink. So the immune system gears up, sending a variety of cells to the site of the inking. Some cells carry off tiny amounts of the ink, primarily to the lymph nodes, where it dissipates. Other immune cells merge with the remaining ink, so that both become long-term residents of that portion of the skin. Still other cells initiate an inflammatory response, helping the injured tissue to mend, which it usually does within a few weeks.


As anyone who watches sports knows, are popular with athletes. By some estimates, at least half of collegiate and professional basketball players have that cover much of their chest and arms. The incidence seems to be equally high among football and soccer players and many other athletes.

But no one had studied whether might in any way affect the physiology of the skin and, in particular, the operation of the sweat glands. That possibility matters, since normal, healthy sweat glands are important for athletes (and everyone else). We cool our bodies in large part through sweating. Sweating also releases sodium and other electrolytes.

So recently, Maurie Luetkemeier, a professor of integrative physiology and science at Alma College in Alma, Mich., and two of his undergraduate students, Joe Hanisko and Kyle Aho, decided to look closely at how tattooed skin sweats.
For their study, which was published recently in Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise, they began by recruiting 10 healthy, young men with a tattoo on one side of their upper bodies. That tattoo had to be matched by an equal amount of untattooed skin on the other side. In other words, a heart, dragon or John Deere cap (yes, O.K., that is my tattoo) on the right shoulder would be balanced by untattooed skin at the same location on the left shoulder. Some of these were recent; others were three or four years old.

The researchers then applied small chemical patches to both the tattooed and untattooed skin. These patches contained pilocarpine nitrate, a substance that initiates sweating. (It is commonly used to test for cystic fibrosis.)

Immediately after the skin had been exposed to the pilocarpine, the scientists swapped the patches for small spiral-shape discs designed to absorb the resulting perspiration. The volunteers wore these discs for 20 minutes, while their skin obediently sweated.

It did not sweat evenly on each side, however, the scientists soon discovered, after they had removed, weighed and examined the discs. The discs that had been situated above the tattooed skin were much lighter, it turned out. In fact, each man’s tattooed skin had produced barely half as much sweat as his untinted skin.

The composition of this sweat also was different, the scientists found. The perspiration from the tattooed skin contained nearly twice as much sodium as sweat from the corresponding, untattooed side.


Interestingly, the results were the same, whatever the age of the tattoo. Older altered sweating in the same way as newer did.

That finding suggests that the underlying cause of the shift in sweat probably involves permanent changes within the skin after tattooing, Luetkemeier says. Perhaps bits of the remaining dye block some of the sweat glands. But more probably, he says, lingering inflammatory cells change the chemical environment within that area of the skin in ways that slow the response of the glands and affect how much sodium is incorporated from nearby cells into the sweat.

Of course, this was a very small study and involved chemically induced perspiration. The men were not exercising to create body heat and sweat. They also were not women or elderly. Luetkemeier and his students plan to study more expansive groups of volunteers in more real-world situations soon.
 

© 2017 The New York Times


Let's block ads! (Why?)

How tattoos may affect your workout

The heart of India: How Lipstick Under My Burkha and MP Tourism are alike

The department advertisement invites potential visitors: “Hindustan ka dil dekho (Come see the heart of India)”. Alankrita Shrivastava’s Lipstick Under My Burkha does just that, taking us to the heart of and of four women — two Hindu; two Muslim — and the desires that take root there. Only two of these women, Shireen (Konkona Sen Sharma) and Rihanna (Plabita Borthakur) actually don the burkha; for Buaji alias Usha (Ratna Pathak) and Leela (Aahana Kumra) the burkha is a metaphor for the social restrictions they have to conform to. Much as wearing lipstick is a metaphor for their unfulfilled desires and aspirations (A nod to Satyajit Ray’s 1963 classic Mahanagar?).
 
Watching the film last Friday at a multiplex in south Delhi, I was a tad amazed to see a full house. Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk had also released on the same day, and Sridevi-starrer Mom was still going strong. This was quite likely the effect of how Ms Shrivastava’s film, produced by Prakash Jha, had run the gauntlet of the Central Board of Film Certification (CBFC) earlier this year, which had refused to clear it. In its justification, the CBFC, chaired by Pahlaj Nihalani, had said the “women in the film are shown in bad light, particularly targeting women of certain community which might hurt sentiments.” Following this, Mr Jha and Ms Shrivastava had appealed to the Film Certificate Appellate Tribunal, which cleared Lipstick... with 11 cuts and advised the CBFC to give it an “A” certificate.

 
I also wondered why the film had been refused certification in the first place. Yes, it has some sex scenes, and some cuss words, but nothing we have not seen or heard before on the silver screen in India. The film is well-made, the script is tight, the issues it deals with are pressing, the acting is very good, and it does push the envelope considerably. But, surely as far as feminist films in India go, its edginess is not a shade on The Bandit Queen (1994), or Fire (1996), or Bawandar (2000), or Water (2005). (All these films had also sailed into troubled waters with the censor board.) Lipstick... funny and sad; but definitely not revolutionary as far as dealing with its central subject — women’s desire.
 
Mr Pahalani himself is no stranger to women’s desire, though its depiction in his own films can only be ascribed the adjective “lewd”. His 1993 film, Aankhen had inviting with the wildly popular song “Khet gaye baba, bajaar gayee ma; aleki hu ghar ma, tu aaja balma (Father has gone to the fields; mother to the bazaar; I’m alone at home; come over sweetheart). Another film, Andaaz (1994), had Juhi Chawla urging her husband, played by Anil Kapoor, “Yeh maal gaadi mujhe dhakka laga (Push the freight car.)” What problem a board led by him could have with a more subtle film beats comprehension.
 
Of course, prudishness about sex continues to be a persistent problem in this country, but here is some data to show how the times are changing. Though Section 292 of the Indian Penal Code prohibits the sale, distribution, possession, and circulation of obscene objects — defined as “object, shall be deemed to be obscene if it is lascivious or appeals to the pruri­ent interest” — the sexual wellness sector is growing at a rate of about 35 per cent since 2014, according to a report by market research firm TechNavio. This will continue till 2019. The market size is about $227.8 million; the global market is about $22 billion. Clearly, Indians are more having sex, whether they confess to it or not.
 
The real transgression in Lipstick...’s narrative was not the sex — but in the depiction of a harmonious social fabric which is fast disappearing all over India. (The CBFC makes no mention of this, so one must assume this had no bearing on its decision.) At Hawa Manzil, the house owned partly by Ushaji where all the other characters are tenants, is a sort of mini-India, where Hindus and Muslims are nonchalant neighbours, participating in each other’s weddings and festivals. The climax of the film is on the night of Diwali, where people from both communities take part in equal enthusiasm, reminding one of the Ganga-Yamuna tehzeeb, or culture of communal harmony, which was the mainstay of Hindi cinema till very recently, finding its most successful representation in Amar Akbar Anthony (1977).
 
In her article "Bollywood and the business of secularism" (The Hindu, April 16, 2017), Sohini Chattopadhyay argues, “Despite its Amar Akbar Anthony halo, the film industry’s secular credentials appear shaped more by commerce than ideology.” Her arguments are forceful and the examples she provides are undeniable: For instance, the three Khans (Shah Rukh, Aamir and Salman) have mostly played Hindu characters, even when they do act as Muslims on screen, their characters lack different shades; that famous Muslim stars of yesteryears invariably took on Hindu names — Yusuf Khan became Dilip Kumar; Mumtaz Jaan Dehalvi became Madhubala, and Mahjabeen Bano turned into Meena Kumari.
 
All this is true, but it ignores the fact the primary motive of communalism is always commerce. The architects of communally polarised societies are motivated not by any intrinsic hatred for the other; on the contrary, they invent the hatred to justify their commercial purposes. So what harm is there if Bollywood’s secularism is prompted by its own commercial desires? In fact, in our times, when religion has become such a belligerently contested space, what better motivation to sustain a culture of secularism if not commerce and economic well-being? A film like Lipstick... is proof of the pudding. 

Let's block ads! (Why?)

The heart of India: How Lipstick Under My Burkha and MP Tourism are alike

jeudi 27 juillet 2017

Arundhati's new novel lays India bare, unveiling worlds within our world

Wearing two hats at once can be an uncomfortable fit, but it does not seem to bother the author Arundhati Roy, who for most of her life has railed against state excesses and corporate exploitation while also wielding the pen.

Maybe she does not think of these two jobs as different, but rather as extensions of each other.

This, at least, is the impression Roy gives her readers in her latest novel, The Ministry of Utmost Happiness (Hamish Hamilton), which came out in early June. Two decades in the making, the book records the story of India as it transpired over those 20 years.

This contemporary history is told and retold by myriad voices: those of hijras, people who identify themselves as belonging to the third gender or as transgender; of a dalit man (of the lowest castes) who pretends to be Muslim; of Kashmiris, of Indian civil servants, cold-blooded killers and puppet journalists; of adivasis (tribal populations) and of artists, of owls and kittens and of a dung beetle named Guih Kyom.

Locales are similarly wide-ranging. Roy takes readers from a graveyard in Old Delhi to civil war-torn Kashmir and to central Indian forests, where Maoist insurgents fight India’s army. Some of the book transpires too in the 18th-century astronomical site, Jantar Mantar, the only place in Delhi where people are allowed to protest.

Those are just a few of the backdrops in this panoramic novel, which touches on the various Indian social movements that have captured global attention in recent years, from the 2011 anti-corruption Anna Hazare protests to the 2016 Una dalit struggle.

Roy uses the internal contradictions of the movements and the locales to mirror her meandering plotlines, which knit all these skeins together into a kaleidoscopic larger narrative.

It’s an uneasy fit, and the book often feels like it is about to burst at the seams. Still, Roy somehow holds it all together, clumsily yet passionately, leaving no one and nothing out.

Between a graveyard and a valley

Both the margins and the marginalised speak in the Ministry of Utmost Happiness, a feat Roy has also sought to achieve with both her activism and her non-fiction work.

The story follows two characters: Anjum, nee Aftab, a hijra who rejects the politically correct term “transgender”, and Tilo, a Delhi-based architect turned graphic designer who kidnaps a baby from Jantar Mantar.

Anjum’s life is a lens onto an alternate duniya, or world, one where hijras live and learn together, cloistered, following their own rules, regulations and hierarchies.

That changes forever when Anjum travels to Gujarat, a western Indian state that is known for its recent history of religious violence between Hindus and Muslims, and witnesses a massacre. Shortly thereafter, Anjum moves to a graveyard in Old Delhi.

As always, Roy’s brilliance shines most in her choice of locales and the imagery they invoke.

In The God of Small Things (1997), the banks of the Meenachil River in southern Kerala served as the space of deviance for the protagonists, where Ammu and Velutha have their escapades and Estha and Rahel get up to mischief.

In The Ministry of Utmost Happiness, the author gives us two contrasting, contradictory settings: a graveyard that becomes a place of life and the verdant Kashmir valley, a space of death and misery.

Anjum starts a guesthouse in the old graveyard, with each room enclosing a grave. Holding feasts for festivals, she invites her friends over to dine regularly at the graveyard-guest house. Later, Tilo moves in permanently with the baby.

The reader understands this resplendent graveyard, which features not just living humans but an impressive stock of animals too, as an ode to tolerating (or, more correctly termed, to accommodating) plurality, a blunt contrast to the truth of modern-day India, with its increasing intolerance towards religious and social differences.

For this, for trying to etch out a semblance of hope, for showing broken things and shattered people coming together to carve out a niche of their own, Roy deserves applause.

Disparate and intertwined tales

At times all these voices, places and problems escalate into a dissonant cacophony that leaves the reader perplexed, exhausted and grasping at the multiple threads of the plot. But the novel’s brilliance lies in how it captures subtle moments, with attention to detail and sharp compassion.

For instance, the Ustad (master) Kulsoom Bi takes Anjum and the other newly initiated hijra residents to a light and sound show at the Red Fort in Delhi just so they can hear the fleeting but distinct coquettish giggle of a court eunuch. She explains to them that they, the hijras, were not “commoners, but members of the staff of the Royal Palace in the medieval period.”

These nuggets of everyday history and poetry keep readers hooked, gradually lowering us through each of the story’s many layers and offering moments of clarity in an otherwise tangled mesh.

Some have called Roy’s a “fascinating mess”, but frankly when one decides to write a shattered story about all things, the narrative(s) is bound to get fuzzy.

The book may be difficult for those who have not been following Roy and her causes in the long years since God of Small Things. But those who get her intellectual moorings and understand her role as a voice of dissent in today’s climate of “saffronisation” – the spread of extreme-right Hindu values across India, a nation veering hazardously towards authoritarianism, know that the author and her work are one.

Roy’s novel, much like her role as a public intellectual, is a reminder that the world we inhabit is a composite one – a duniya of duniyas – where invisible people, their unrepresented struggles and their unacknowledged yearnings have the right to exist.

The ConversationThe tells their story, extolling everyone’s right to be heard, even if only fleetingly, in the coquettish giggle of a court eunuch.


Malavika Binny, Researcher, Jawaharlal Nehru University

This article was originally published on The Conversation. Read the original article.

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Arundhati's new novel lays India bare, unveiling worlds within our world

Dunkirk survivors' terror didn't end when they were rescued

In late May 1940, Vic was one of the 338,000 Allied troops on the beaches around the port of hoping for rescue as the German Army neared and the Luftwaffe circled above.

At age 99, met with Christopher Nolan, writer and director of a new movie about the evacuation, and tried to give the filmmaker some sense of what it was like to be trapped on those beaches. But, he insisted, “You can’t tell anybody what it was like. You had to have been there.”

Nolan and his collaborators certainly do their best to bring experiences like Viner’s to life for moviegoers. The film “Dunkirk” portrays a sequence of terrors: the horrible vulnerability of being prey to a swooping dive bomber; the helplessness of watching a ship list and hurry under the waves; the bitter necessity of pushing desperate men away from an overburdened lifeboat.

In one scene, the film follows the crew of a small civilian boat as it lifts survivors from the sea off of One, a Royal Navy sailor whose ship has been torpedoed by a U-boat, huddles on the boat unresponsive.

“Is he a coward?” one of the boat’s crew asks its skipper, played by Mark Rylance.

“He’s shell-shocked, George,” the captain replies. “He’s not himself. He may never be himself again.” It’s a foretelling of the reality for many of those who returned, changed from

Preserving the voices of survivors

Documenting the reality of those shell-shocked survivors is what London’s Imperial War Museum had in mind when it recorded interviews of scores of veterans in the 1990s and early 2000s. Those interviews show that the horror stayed with many of them long after they were freed from a deathtrap between the German Army, the Luftwaffe and the sea.

As a WWII historian, I’ve found those tapes – many free to stream – substantiate the film’s depictions of anguish. But, even more, they add the dimension of time and the long echoes of that anguish which the film can’t capture.

On his 1999 recording, Will Harvey tells how shrapnel from a German bomb tore through his legs as he waited for his chance to board a ship. In the pain and confusion, he mistakenly thought his legs were gone. “You lost a bit of your senses.”

His voice cracks, but he covers it up with an out-of-place laugh. These are commonplace in the tapes, along with obvious restraint and overall evasion of grim details.

Asked about his recovery, Harvey says, “I used to get aggressive, at times, with the blokes, you know. I’d try to control it. I used to get very aggressive.”

He tried to return to his unit but, suffering from a series of breakdowns from then on, he was soon discharged from the Army. After that, he tried and failed to reenlist in the Marines.

As a 21-year-old, Al Tyers found himself directing men onto awaiting ships at Dunkirk, ordered to give priority to the Army and male refugees of fighting age over the many civilians who were also trying get away from the oncoming Germans. “As many as could go on a ship…they packed you in like cattle,” he says. But then, “they put that siren on, that screaming siren,” just before the German dive bombers would rush over the treetops aiming for the departing ships. Moments like this are depicted with hair-raising effect in the film.

“A ship would get loaded up – I don’t know, a thousand or so… and get half a mile out. And the next thing, you’d see the ship going down.” Tyers fails to hide the emotion in his voice at that; like other interviewees, he diverts from the terrible scene quickly.

Back in Britain, Tyers suffered from debilitating claustrophobia. He spent three months in psychiatric hospital, but even afterwards newsreels depicting war scenes would send him rushing outside to the open air. Back home, he couldn’t sit shoulder to shoulder with people at meals.

“I don’t know whether they understood or not.”

Other voices from the archive speak of trouble reintegrating into civilian life. William Machin, Charles Mandeville and Harry Garrett tell of being hounded by nightmares. Ernest Leggett describes how he still saw and Belgian refugees being shattered by German bombers and fighters in his dreams decades later.

Treating the ‘sufferers’

There’s plenty of evidence of Dunkirk survivors being institutionalized. Doctors documented that many evacuees inundating hospitals in Britain were “suffering,” in the words of one psychiatrist, “from acute hysteria, reactive depression, functional loss of memory or the use of their limbs.” But the wartime government didn’t keep track of the numbers. It wasn’t in its interest to report on it. They also didn’t track veteran suicides, an epidemic among today’s combat veterans. But there’s evidence of them.

Suicides on the beaches around were also uncounted, but some are documented. Christopher Nolan’s depiction of a soldier striding into the waves, apparently intending to “walk home,” is based on more than one real incident. Many others wandered off, senseless, to unknown fates. Others shot themselves.

And there are official records of lingering and often debilitating anxiety among the Dover-based crews who braved repeated crossings of the channel with evacuees. A secret memo produced two months afterward reported a spike in anxiety problems, with more than one in seven sailors on the station affected.

Indelible memories

For those evacuees, eventually shifting to civilian life was hard. “Started having psychological problems, you know.… Almost passing out every now and again. … Suddenly you’re dropped off a cliff… You’ve come unhinged,” Reg Dance says on his 1999 tape. “It took an awful long time for that to go. But it did in the end, otherwise I wouldn’t be here.”

Fred Walton made it off the beach, but the paddle steamer he was on was bombed while he was on the upper deck. A man nearby had both legs blown off. The man next to Walton was cut by shrapnel and almost leaped into the sea, panicked. Walton had to pin him down.

The Conversation logo

“How do you forget those sorts of things?” he asked his Imperial War Museum interviewer. “Don’t think you can ever be the same, can you?” He breaks off with another of those awkward laughs.

At the time Walton was interviewed in 2008 tape, 4,000 troops were still in Iraq.

The Conversation“It’s showing itself again, isn’t it?” says Walton. “The lads who are coming home now?”


John Broich, Associate Professor, Case Western Reserve University

This article was originally published on The Conversation. Read the original article.

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Dunkirk survivors' terror didn't end when they were rescued

New report sheds light on Oxfordshire office rent costs

OXFORD and South Oxfordshire out-performed long-term averages in 2016 and the first three months of this year, according to a new report. New report sheds light on Oxfordshire office rent costs

'Cycling is the new golf' - businessman networking on two wheels

CYCLING is the new golf, according to an Oxford-based investor. 'Cycling is the new golf' - businessman networking on two wheels

Indu Sarkar gets Supreme Court's nod, to release tomorrow

The on Thursday cleared the decks for the release of Bollywood movie 'Indu Sarkar' tomorrow by dismissing a plea of a woman, who claimed to be the biological daughter of late Sanjay Gandhi, for a stay on its screening.

A three-judge bench, headed by Justice Dipak Misra, said that the Madhur Bhandarkar-directed movie, which was based on the 1975-1977 period, was an "artistic expression" within the parameters of the law and there was no justification to stall its scheduled release tomorrow.


Bhandarkar's counsel told the bench, also comprising justices Amitava Roy and A M Khanwilkar, cuts suggested by a committee of the Central Board of Film Certification (CBFC) have already been carried out and a disclaimer put in the movie making it absolutely clear that it has no resemblance with any person, living or dead.

"As far as exhibition of the movie is concerned, we are of the convinced opinion that it is an artistic expression within the parameters of the law and there is no justification to curtail the same," the bench said.

The apex court said that the plea filed by the woman challenging the Bombay High Court's July 24 judgement was "devoid of merits".

Priya Singh Paul, who claimed to be the biological daughter of late Sanjay Gandhi, had moved the apex court against the high court's verdict dismissing her plea to quash the certificate granted to the movie by the

During the hearing today, her counsel alleged that the film contained "concocted facts" and maligned the image of former prime minister and her son Sanjay.

The film, scheduled for release tomorrow, has evoked strong criticism and protest from members.

"My biological grand mother was the prime minister. The movie contains totally derogatory facts and it is horrendous for a movie to malign the image of these persons," Paul had claimed.

The Bombay High Court order had said that the woman had not made out any case for the court to interfere and stay release of the movie after the granted certification to the movie.

The high court had also noted that no acknowledged descendant of has raised objection to the film.

Bhandarkar's counsel had argued before the high court that the petitioner has no locus standi (not an affected party) to file such a petition, challenging the release of a movie.

The censor board had granted a U/A certificate to the film after ordering 12 cuts, which has been complied with.

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Indu Sarkar gets Supreme Court's nod, to release tomorrow

Oxford boss goes back to school

THE new boss of an accountancy firm has followed his own advice by gaining more qualifications. Oxford boss goes back to school

Energy firm in powerful pledge to Oxford workforce

POWER generation firm Drax has pledged its commitment to its 100 staff in Oxford, saying it plans to expand its base here. Energy firm in powerful pledge to Oxford workforce

Disabled entrepreneurs in Oxfordshire urged to compete for £30,000 prize

DISABLED people in Oxfordshire who have started their own business are being encouraged to enter a competition with a top prize of £30,000. Disabled entrepreneurs in Oxfordshire urged to compete for £30,000 prize

Oxford boss goes back to school

THE new boss of an accountancy firm has followed his own advice by gaining more qualifications. Oxford boss goes back to school

Energy firm in powerful pledge to Oxford workforce

POWER generation firm Drax has pledged its commitment to its 100 staff in Oxford, saying it plans to expand its base here. Energy firm in powerful pledge to Oxford workforce

mercredi 26 juillet 2017

New head of bank for regional business lending in Oxfordshire

A NEW regional director for small-to-medium sized firms in the county has been appointed by Lloyds Bank commercial banking. New head of bank for regional business lending in Oxfordshire

Maestros of the concert merchandise movement

One Friday morning in early May, eight high-end boutiques in the and were flooded with desperate fans jostling to claim their piece of the Weeknd, snapping up bombers, hats, shirts and sweatpants celebrating his album Starboy. Two weeks later, at exactly 5 pm, at more than 200 stores, Urban Outfitters released decorated with Lady Gaga’s face and the title of her album Joanne to barely controlled consumer delight.

Welcome to the world of elevated concert merch — special collections linked to specific cultural events, limited in availability, and one of the newest and fastest-growing sub-sectors in the fashion world. From the first half of 2014 to the first half of 2017, the amount of tour-related products sold online increased by 720 per cent, according to Edited, a company that tracks analytics at more than 90,000 brands and retailers.


Driving the phenomenon is Bravado, the division at Universal Music Group that works with entertainers such as Justin Bieber, Desiigner, Selena Gomez, and the Weeknd to design, manufacture and distribute branded products; it is led by Mat Vlasic, an energetic New Yorker (and Riverdale Country School alum) who favours a black-on-black uniform and meditation for handling stress.

Not far behind is the Thread Shop, Sony Music Entertainment’s merchandising arm, which collaborates with artists such as Nas, Common, A Tribe Called Quest, ASAP Rocky, DJ Khaled and Fifth Harmony, and which is run by Frances Wong, also a New Yorker (but raised in New Jersey), who calls the Thread Shop’s savvy customers “kids” and worked for Rocawear, the clothing label started in 1999 by Jay-Z and Damon Dash.

In a twist of corporate musical chairs, Bravado’s Vlasic actually founded the Thread Shop during a 12-year stint at Sony, where he began in the finance department, while Wong worked at Bravado until 2015.

Now, the two are engaged in something of an arms race to own the increasingly lucrative cross-disciplinary fashion territory they have defined.

When first releasing an artist’s products, both Bravado and the Thread Shop will often do so through pop-up shops. “We’ll identify the ground zero retailers that create demand, create urgency,” said Frank Bartolotta, Bravado’s senior vice-president for national sales. “That creates a crazy amount of energy. Because it’s like, ‘If I didn’t get it during that three-day cycle, I need to figure out when I’m going to get it.’ Then we go to a larger retail partner.”


Thus in early May, Starboy was sold for three days only at boutiques in eight cities across the US, including Patron of the New in New York and FourTwoFour on Fairfax in Los Angeles, and also online for limited periods. After that, Bravado went to PacSun for a larger roll-out. “If there’s not an experience tied into this, it becomes stale, it becomes mute,” Bartolotta said. “When we create these moments that live there for literally 72 hours, there’s an alertness, and that fan is rabid.”

Wong takes it a step further and offers a different collection at each distribution point. “I don’t want fans to see the same thing over and over again,” she said. “If you’re a fan, you’re going to be shopping online; if we drop something at Urban Outfitters, you’ll go to Urban; and if you’re at the tour, you’ll buy a T-shirt, too.”

Or, if you know your way around the resale market, you might go to eBay, Grailed or similar online marketplaces for the items you missed. After all, not everyone lives in the city where a store pops up or a tour stops. “The reselling culture is now crossing over into the world of music and merchandise,” said Lawrence Schlossman, the brand director of Grailed. 



© 2017 New York Times Service

Let's block ads! (Why?)

Maestros of the concert merchandise movement

dimanche 23 juillet 2017

Struggling to ditch meat? Here are five ways to resist the temptation

'The Big Sick,' South Asian identity and me

I never told my Bengali parents about my first kiss. I was 14 and we were in the basement of my house in Howell, N.J. Her name was Sharon and she had braces. It didn’t go well. Sorry, Sharon.

They never knew about my high school crushes, my dates at Applebee’s, or my first couple of girlfriends. I hid all this because I knew my parents wouldn’t approve. They had an arranged marriage. In India, where they grew up, choosing your life partner was uncommon.

Right after graduating college, I finally mustered the courage to introduce my mother to my longtime girlfriend, Michelle, hoping that after four decades in the United States, my mother might be ready for the idea that (a) I had chosen my own girlfriend and (b) my girlfriend might be white.


This is America, after all: You are exposed to choices. You can say what you want, read what you want and eat what you want. (The actor and comedian Aasif Mandvi writes in his book “No Land’s Man” that his father brought his family to the United States because of brunch.)

I was optimistic about how the dinner at my mother’s apartment would go, and it started off well. Michelle brought flowers. But my hope was misplaced.

The dinner was mostly me being a nervous chatterbox, trying in vain to spark conversation between two people with little in common. My mother didn’t talk much, if at all. She grew up in a different culture and a different generation. She was too polite to say it, but I know she wanted my partner to be Indian, like us. She wanted someone who understood her world. That wasn’t Michelle, or Sharon, or anyone else I had chosen.

Crossing the cultural divide can be lonely, particularly when you’re growing up in a mostly white town. Especially when few television shows and films tell stories of people who look like you.

“The Big Sick” is a welcome exception.


The romantic complications of children who grow up here have rarely been displayed as vividly as in this film, which tells the story of a Pakistani comic and Uber driver in a relationship with a grad student, who is white. Starring and co-written by Kumail Nanjiani, who was born in Karachi, it explores the identity in depth, and speaks to conflicts that many of us face growing up in America.

The film is about Mr. Nanjiani’s real-life courtship, breakup and eventual marriage to Emily V. Gordon, his wife and co-author (played by Zoe Kazan). And even though no one I’ve dated fell into a coma, as Ms. Gordon did, Mr. Nanjiani’s struggle was a recognizable one.


He wasn’t the first to tell a uniquely story, of course: explored similar themes in the 2007 film “The Namesake,” based on the book by Jhumpa Lahiri. Ravi Patel lays this conflict bare in his 2015 documentary, “Meet The Patels,” in which he allows his parents to arrange a marriage for him, at the expense of his true love at the time, a writer named Audrey Wauchope. And there is Aziz Ansari, who stars in Netflix’s “Master of None” and dives into this subject in episodic format.

But a number of women have expressed a reaction completely different from mine, seeing “The Big Sick” as yet another movie that portrays women as inherently less desirable.

For the website Jezebel, the Brooklyn artist Aditi Natasha Kini wrote a critique of the film, titled “I’m Tired of Watching Brown Men Fall in Love With White Women Onscreen.” On Vice, Amil Niazi wrote, “I found myself growing increasingly frustrated and then infuriated with the clichéd, stereotypical depictions of women that have unfortunately become the norm in the growing onscreen narratives of brown men.”

Tanzila Ahmed, writing for The Aerogram, a culture site, summed up the critique this way: “Once again, Muslim Brown women were crafted as undesirable, conventional and unmarriageable for the Modern Muslim-ish Male.”

The word “erasure” comes up frequently in the criticism, and it’s neither new nor unfounded. Beyond a few notable exceptions — such as Mindy Kaling in “The Mindy Project,” and “Brown Girls,” a coming HBO show featuring a Pakistani-American lead — there isn’t enough representation of brown women onscreen. Mr. Ansari faced that complaint after “Master of None” was released; his character often pursues white women.

“No ethnic requirements on any casting. We just cast the best people,” he responded on Twitter.


Ms. Ahmed also took issue with a dynamic in several American movies featuring men: “Why does there always need to be a white leading woman? Are we unable to tell Brown romantic narratives without grounding them in Whiteness?”

On one level, the evidence is clear: Many movies about interracial relationships feature white women in the lead role (and rarely have characters at all). From 1967’s “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner” to 2001’s “Save the Last Dance,” films with interracial leads often feature a white woman with a man of color, exploring their relationship almost exclusively through a racial lens. Some casting has bucked this trend — think of Halle Berry’s Oscar-winning performance in “Monster’s Ball,” or Zoe Saldana in the remake “Guess Who” — but there is a clear pattern of idealizing white women that often comes at the expense of women of color.

For me, though, “The Big Sick” is the wrong target for this frustration.


Stories of culture are rarely given voice. We certainly need more of these, particularly from female writers and producers. But here, it is Mr. Nanjiani’s story being told — not that of a roomful of white writers looking to throw some diversity into their screenplay. He is married to a white woman. The story is about their courtship.

I didn’t see “The Big Sick” as a rejection of women, but rather a rejection of arranged marriage, a difficult and searing subject for some of us who have experienced it up close.

My parents were a terrible match. But they stayed together because arranged marriages are often transactional at first; the love, in theory, comes later. That never happened for my parents. And it took them 30 years to end the marriage, at least partially because divorce is stigmatized in culture. (Estimates for the divorce rates among Indian-Americans range from 1 to 15 percent.)

My reaction to this, admittedly flawed, was to reject the part of myself that came from India. Searching for something to blame for my family ills, I blamed arranged marriage. “How could I subscribe to a culture that forced these two together?” I would often think, silently pulling away from my roots as I entered adulthood.

Along the way, my mother did her best to keep me grounded. I took classical Indian vocal lessons. We went to annual Hindu festivals to offer prayers to various gods and goddesses. Sometimes I performed the songs I learned, but it was never quite right. (In “The Big Sick,” Mr. Nanjiani’s character fake prays to please his parents. Been there.) I never felt at home. And my parents, especially my mother, felt a profound sense of loss.

This is what I have struggled with in my 20s as I consider my brownness. When it came to marriage, I’ve thought: “If I say no to my Indian roots, I won’t have the marriage my parents had. I won’t be like that with my kids.”


Of course, Mr. Nanjiani, Mr. Patel and many, many other children who grew up in the United States didn’t have an experience like mine. For many parents, the love did come later — or they were not in arranged marriages at all.

The critique of “The Big Sick” as contributing to stereotypes of women is surely understandable. Mr. Nanjiani’s mother, played by Zenobia Shroff, lines up women for Mr. Nanjiani, hoping that he will find one of them suitable for marriage. At least one of the choices, played by an actress with an ethnic accent, can be reasonably seen as a caricature, as she tries overly hard to impress Mr. as a fan of “The X-Files.”

The inherent awkwardness of an arranged first date around the family dinner table is highlighted. In my eyes, the point wasn’t to relegate women to a punch line, but to add levity to a story in which Mr. struggles with a choice that could isolate him from his family.

When my brother, Sattik, who is 10 years older than I am, married Erica, a white woman, they had a Catholic ceremony.

My mother was devastated. She wanted an Indian wedding. I asked why it was important.


“Because we are Indian. I am Indian,” my mother said. weddings, generally, are about a marriage of two families, rather than two individuals. My brother’s wedding went on, but my mother never fully embraced the nuptials.

“Shambo, I want you to have an Indian wedding to an Indian girl,” my mother said to me, using a childhood nickname. I was 19 at the time and thought, “Not gonna happen.”

I was frustrated and baffled by her mind-set. I am sure she felt the same about mine.


I have since dated women and been very happy. I may very well marry one and have the wedding my mother wants for me. But if I do, it will be because the woman is someone I want to be with, and who wants to be with me.

Mr. Nanjiani’s film explored that freedom to choose — one brown guy’s experience crossing the chasm between two very different cultures. Faulting him for telling his story feels like a kind of erasure, too. I am also not going to deprive Ms. Gordon her due, because it is her story as well.

Rather than criticizing the film for what it is not, I appreciate what it offers: a clear, illuminating reflection of the world that I grew up in, a world that few outsiders see.

And on the other side, my parents have gradually inched across the divide, accepting more of the cultural differences, as Mr. Nanjiani’s parents ultimately did.


They have even asked — ever so gingerly — who I am dating.

The writer is a culture reporter at the Times.



Let's block ads! (Why?)

'The Big Sick,' South Asian identity and me

For Warner Bros, a 'cinematic universe' built of Lego bricks

and Entertainment seem to be perfect partners: One is a multinational toy company in search of expansion, and the other is a global entertainment giant looking for more content.

But as both ramp up promotion for the September release of their third film together, “The Movie,” some are wondering whether the cinematic landscape is cluttered with too many bricks.

“The Movie” was a surprise smash in 2014, costing about $60 million to make and collecting $469.2 million worldwide. A sequel to that film is planned for 2019. But a related follow-up to the original, “The Batman Movie,” released in February, took in only $311 million, in part because girls were not as interested. And now, a short seven months later, comes “

The stakes are high for Few films on its schedule are more important than “The Movie,” which it sees as part of a continuing “cinematic universe” and a pillar for the studio, with additional original installments and sequels exploring different genres planned for the next decade and beyond.

But is more than just a movie for The brand was introduced in 2011 with a martial-arts themed line of toys and a TV series. anticipated a short life span, but consumer response was stronger than expected, so brought it back in 2014 with new building sets and new seasons of the TV series.

“There is an affinity for the property,” said Michael McNally, the senior director of brand relations for

Still, some industry watchers say the ambitious movie slate, combined with an equally elaborate merchandising push, could end up hurting.

Jim Silver, the chief executive and editor in chief of TTPM, a toy industry website, said the overall market was oversaturated with movie-related toys this year, and children were not making an emotional attachment to the brands and the characters.

“There is less attention span on their property,” Mr. Silver said. “Kids are bouncing from one to another.”


Underscoring the importance of “The Movie,” and headed to Comic-Con International, the annual comic book convention in San Diego, over the weekend to mount a full-court press to woo die-hard fans.

Each morning, hosted a yogalike workout (“for the ninja in everyone”) on a lawn that it billed as “ninjoga.” The studio also flew in several actors who voiced characters in the film — Dave Franco, Michael Peña, Kumail Nanjiani and Olivia Munn — for a presentation that included the unveiling of a new trailer set to Taylor Swift’s “Bad Blood.”

“The key for us is to reach both adults and kids,” Dan Lin, the producer behind the “Lego” movie series, said at the presentation. “How do we reach the broadest audience possible to introduce ‘’”

For its part, planned building activities, autograph signings and the unveiling of life-size models at its enormous booth on the convention center floor. And in a new strategy, also introduced 14 movie-themed building sets for sale at the show, a month before they will appear at mass-market retail stores in August.

It is common for toy companies to promote their hottest lines at Comic-Con with exclusive offerings, which fans line up for hours just for a chance to buy. For instance, Hasbro offered two versions of Optimus Prime from its Transformers line, as well as deluxe versions of Marvel Comics’ Daredevil and Luke Skywalker and his landspeeder. Mattel promoted the coming “Justice League” movie with a limited-edition Cyborg action figure and a Hot Wheels Batmobile, and it offered a two-pack featuring Wonder Woman and Cheetah from its DC Super Hero Girls line.

“We lean into our consumer insights” to give the fans what they want, said Samantha Lomow, senior vice president of Hasbro brands. “The economic model around these items is less about the financial than they are about the fan base.”


has its own exclusive building sets at the convention as well, but the introduction of a retail line at Comic-Con is a first for the company.

“The timing works really well,” said Mr. McNally, creating a slow build for the movie that “stands out and drives buzz.”


All the attention at Comic-Con will help build awareness among influencers and the media, Mr. Silver of TTPM said. “ is keeping the brick front and center,” he said.

Still, the questions surrounding the movie percolated throughout the presentation. Justin Theroux, who voices a character in the movie, said that boys 10 and under were “obsessed” with the “Ninjago” line, in part because of the Cartoon Network series “ Ninjago: Masters of Spinjitzu.” “If you are over that age,” Mr. Theroux said, “you don’t know it exists.”

Mr. McNally played down concerns about having back-to-back movies, saying “The Movie” stood apart from its predecessor and was a good opportunity to reach a wider audience.

“That theatrical experience is then shared through a play experience,” he said, and that could result in consumers buying new sets or even playing with old ones.

“For us, the portfolio can benefit from the movie event,” Mr. McNally said, “even if the action the audience takes is to pull out the bricks they have and continue building.”

Let's block ads! (Why?)

For Warner Bros, a 'cinematic universe' built of Lego bricks