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In the 1970s, many of Delhi's photo studios offered hand-painted backdrops: Castle, fort, forest and the Himalayas, the mountains picked out in dazzling Rin-white tints against a glaring, blue sky. But even in its cliches and exaggerations, there was something about the Himalayan backdrop that hinted at the grandeur and magnificence of the real thing. One night in Yumesamdong in Sikkim, I looked out the window, muzzy from a long day's travel, and the range that I hadn't really registered before except as a backdrop took on a startling, unforgettable presence. The Himalayas ...
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